The Dominican Alps

Driving inland about 90 minutes south from Puerto Plata brings you up close and personal to the rugged soul of the Dominican Republic—the Cordillera Central mountain region and Cibao Valley. In this “Land of Eternal Spring,” lush alluvial plains separate the three tallest mountains in the West Indies, while no less than 18 waterfalls cascade over chasms cutting deep into the rich, fertile earth. The area is home to coffee and tobacco plantations (Dominican cigars) owned by families that for generations have been producing these two key Dominican exports. The topsoil here is said to be among the deepest in the world, and farmlands thriving with apples, peaches and strawberries contribute to the island’s reputation as the breadbasket of the Caribbean. Not many tourists make it into the heartland, but those who do discover an easily accessible and untrammeled Eden.

In the middle of all this, the Yaque del Norte and Jimenoa rivers intersect outside a small town called Jarabacoa—a Taiíno word meaning “place where the water flees.” The town itself is a relaxed community with small hotels and a surprising amount of good restaurants serving reasonably priced local food. But it’s up among the higher altitudes in the surrounding mountains where eco-tourists come to play in the cooler air fresh with the scent of Caribbean pine trees.

Jarabacoa is an eco-tourist’s playground in the Dominican Republic’s hinterland located about 2 1/2 hours north of Santo Domingo and 1 1/2 hours south of Puerto Plata. Gracing the foothills of the Cordillera Central, the countryside beyond Jarabacoa is the island’s most fertile region. Long deep valleys carpeted in forests of palm trees cascade down from the mountaintops, while deep canyons cut a random swath through the rugged landscape. No less than 18 waterfalls pour over these chasms, and any visit here should include a rather invigorating massage in the pool below the Baiguate waterfalls.

Up in the higher altitudes, the air is rich with the scent of pine trees and cool mountain breezes. This part of the country is known as the “Land of Eternal Spring,” where the temperature never tops 71 degrees, providing a welcome respite from the tropical temperatures along the coastal plains.

“Jarabacoa” is a Taino Indian word meaning “place where the water flees.” And it’s because of these waters—the Yaque del Norte and Jimenoa rivers—that the region is garnering so much worldwide attention. Home to an eclectic stable of mountain lodges, the region is luring adventure travelers looking to stretch their muscles with a wealth of adrenaline-pumping activities in one of Mother Nature’s proudest Caribbean achievements.

Base camp for anchoring these active vacationers is Rancho Baiguate, a cross between an African safari lodge and West Indies ranch plantation mountain lodge and adventure outfitter teeming with young and old adrenaline seekers from around the world. Every day. From here, innumerable tours venture into the country for whitewater river rafting, canoeing, horseback riding, 4-wheel motor biking, canyon rappelling and mountain biking. The real outdoorsy types can leave from here between November and March for a 3-day, trek up to the summit king of Pico Duarte and canoeing.

For those who find all this a little too extreme, the Armando Bermúdez and José Carmen Ramírez national parks a little to the west valleys and forests in the western part of the country offer a bewildering mix of flora and fauna highlighted by the many varieties of orchids and bromeliads. More than 250 different bird species have been spotted in Hispaniola, more than over half of them can be seen in these two parks. Inn the J. Armando Bermúdez National Park home, specialized guides will point out native birds such as chicui, zumbador de las montañas, papagayo, and cotorra. And for the botanists in the group, this floral paradise includes bromeliads, ferns, orchids and wild fruit trees.

Hotels along both the northern and southern coasts can arrange a host of day trips to Jarabacoa. If they prefer, visitors can enjoy two vacations in one by splitting their time between the beach and the towering mountain peaks. Either way, a trip into the Dominican Alps unveils a pastoral side of the Dominican Republic that’s unique to the entire Caribbean Basin.

MUSTS

• Venture out to one of the local saltos (waterfalls) for a dip in the swimming pools below. Salto Baiguate is one of the best, and the walk to get there skirts a long ravine with pretty views.
• Paddle down the river through whitewater rapids aboard large inflatable craft that seat up to 12 people. Tours come with a guide to lead the way and pull any overboard rafters out of the surf.
• Visit restaurants in town like El Rancho serving everything from pizza to sautéed octopus and baked chicken stuffed with banana.
• Smoke a fat Dominican cigar on a mountaintop. Cigars on par with Cuba’s finest are produced in factories around Santiago. This may be substituted with a cup of local java.
• Stop. Just stop and smell the juniper. The Cibao Valley is Mother Nature’s finest hour.

Photos Courtesy of The Dominican Republic Ministry of Tourism

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